Literary Connections in Whitby

This past weekend marked my second trip to Whitby in North Yorkshire, more than 10 years after my first. It was, appropriately, on the occasion of a 10-year anniversary – namely, of the existence of Emmanuel Café Church, an informal group based at the University of Leeds chaplaincy center that I was involved in during my master’s year in 2005–6. I was there for the very first year and it was a welcome source of friendship during a tough year of loneliness and homesickness, so it’s gratifying that it’s still going nearly 11 years later (but also scary that it’s all quite that long ago). The reunion was held at Sneaton Castle, a lovely venue with a resident order of Anglican nuns that’s about a half-hour walk from central Whitby.

Sneaton Castle and grounds

Sneaton Castle and grounds

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Whitby harbor, with St. Mary’s Church on the hill.

The more I think about it, Leeds was a fine place to do a Victorian Literature degree – it’s not too far from Haworth, the home of the Brontës, or Whitby, a setting used in Bram Stoker’s Dracula. Two of my classmates and I made our own pilgrimages to both sites in 2006. The Whitby Abbey ruins rising above the churchyard of St. Mary’s certainly create a suitably creepy atmosphere. No wonder Whitby is enduringly popular with Goths and at Halloween.

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Another resident of Victorian Whitby, unknown to me until I saw a plaque designating her cottage on the walk from Sneaton into town, was Mary Linskill (1840–91), who wrote short stories and novels including Between the Heather and the Northern Sea (1884), The Haven under the Hill (1886) and In Exchange for a Soul (1887). I checked Project Gutenberg and couldn’t find a trace of her work, but the University of Reading holds a copy of her Tales of the North Riding in their off-site store. Perhaps I’ll have a gander!

resolutionIMG_0306There are other connections to be made with Whitby, too. For one thing, it has a long maritime history: it was home to William Scoresby (“Whaler, Arctic Voyager and Inventor of the Crow’s Nest,” as the plaque outside his house reads), and Captain James Cook grew up 30 miles away and served an apprenticeship in the town. There’s a statue of Cook plus a big whalebone arch on the hill the other side of the harbor from the church and abbey. It felt particularly fitting that I’ve been reading A.N. Wilson’s forthcoming novel Resolution, about the naturalists who sailed on Captain Cook’s second major expedition in the 1770s.

(My other apt reading for the sunny August weekend was Vanessa Lafaye’s Summertime.)

On our Sunday afternoon browse of Whitby’s town center we couldn’t resist a stop into a bargain bookshop, where my husband bought a cheap copy of David Lebovitz’s all-desserts cookbook; I picked up a classy magnetic bookmark and a novel I’d never heard of for a grand total of £1.09. I know nothing about Dirk Wittenborn’s Pharmakon, but this 10 pence paperback comes with high praise from Lionel Shriver, Bret Easton Ellis and the Guardian, so I’ll give it a try and let you know how it works out in terms of literary value for money!

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Have you explored any literary destinations recently? What have you been reading on summer weekends?

11 responses

  1. Carolyn Anthony | Reply

    Love it!

    Sent from my iPhone

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  2. What a lovely place. Someday I’d love to visit Haworth—maybe not in the winter, though. We have a wealth of literary sites near us, but not really any that would be suitable for a five-year-old who thinks running = walking.

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    1. Haworth is well worth the visit. I went in a February, I think. It was cold and bleak, but that just made it atmospheric.

      We only had a few days in the Boston/Cambridge area on our honeymoon, so I haven’t done a lot of the literary sites around there, just Sleepy Hollow Cemetery. I’d love to go back.

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  3. You had far kinder weather than I did on my one and only trip to Whitby. Mind you I think the dark skies made for an appropriate atmosphere….

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    1. Come to think of it, I had very good weather on both Whitby trips — though it was so windy this recent time that I lost my hat!

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  4. Oh, Whitby is wonderful. My parents and I were there in late July a few years ago and it drizzled and we took shelter in the abbey ruins – so atmospheric. And Carolyn, Haworth is fabulous, and Rebecca is right: it’s best when it’s bleak!

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  5. Sounds like a bibliophile’s dream trip! Fabulous pictures.

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  6. I went to Whitby recently – I love Paul Magrs’ novels and several of them are set there, and I felt like I knew the place when I set foot in it! I’m planning to do a bit of a Winifred Holtby tour around with the friend we met up with to go to Whitby – leaving my husband behind that time, as there’s a limit, and chasing around after writers is apparently it!

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    1. I’d never heard of Paul Magrs. I’m off to look him up! I watched the South Riding TV adaptation a few years back, but otherwise know very little about Holtby. Is she worth reading?

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      1. Oh, hugely so, she’s wonderful. Such a sense of place and her characters. South Riding is so much better than the TV adaptation and they’re all excellent. Do it!

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  7. Both Whitby and Haworth are wonderful destinations. Have you come across this article https://www.theguardian.com/books/booksblog/2009/oct/29/whitby-britains-spookiest-town I’m sure you already know, for the Haworth connection, Robert Edric’s fine novel, ‘Sanctuary’.

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